Thursday, November 26, 2009

Daring Bakers November Challenge: Cannoli


I was both excited and nervous when I found out this month's challenge: cannoli. I love cannoli (especially the ones from Pasticceria Tamborrino in Five Dock with the ricotta and rum filling....) but I've never thought of making it myself and I'm very unaccustomed to deep frying. Anyway the month kind of got away on me and I only remembered today that it was posting day so as soon as the Monkey went down to sleep I got straight into it! One very good thing about the recipe is that the ingredients are typical storecupboard fare so you don't have to buy anything extra (depending on your filling) so I put the dough together in no time and didn't feel the need to even get out the food processor.

I was originally planning on just making the stacked version but when I found out that you could use cannelloni pasta in the cupboard I thought I'd give the tubes a go. The whole process was surprisingly easy although I think I should've rolled them a bit thinner to get more of the desirable "blistering" effect.

I did hit three small hurdles along the way:1: Not enough oil - as I left it so late (evening of 27th and Daring Bakers have to post on the 27th) I only had about an inch and a half so had to turn my cannoli as they cooked but that didn't seem to be a problem. 2: The ricotta I had in the fridge to fill them turned out to be past its sell by date and I was exhausted and nothing would convince Mr Jen to go to Bondi Westfield to buy some on a Friday night when Stargate or similar was on TV. When the cannoli had cooled I dipped the ends in some melted dark chocolate and began my improvised filling. I decided to just fill one tonight and get some ricotta tomorrow so I improvised with some greek yoghurt which I mixed with vanilla, rum and some icing sugar. 3: The heat of my kitchen eventually got the better of me and despite a spell in the freezer, my filling kept running out of my cannoli but its nearly 10pm so I grated a little chocolate on top and took a quick snap.
I will try to add a pic of some more elegant looking fillings tomorrow!
While I was initially daunted, I think I would definitely make these again, especially as the shallow frying was quite effective. What a way to end a dinner party!

The November 2009 Daring Bakers Challenge was chosen and hosted by Lisa Michele of Parsley, Sage, Desserts and Line Drives. She chose the Italian Pastry, Cannolo (Cannoli is plural), using the cookbooks Lidia’s Italian-American Kitchen by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and The Sopranos Family Cookbook by Allen Rucker; recipes by Michelle Scicolone, as ingredient/direction guides. She added her own modifications/changes, so the recipe is not 100% verbatim from either book.

Equipment:
Cannoli forms/tubes - optional, but recommended if making traditional shaped cannoli. Dried cannelloni pasta tubes work just as well!
Deep, heavy saucepan, enough to hold at least 2-3-inches of oil or deep fryer
Deep fat frying thermometer. although the bread cube or bit of dough test will work fine.
Metal tongsBrass or wire skimmer OR large slotted spoon
Pastry bag with large star or plain tip, but a snipped ziplock bag, butter knife or teaspoon will work fine.
Cooling rack
Paper bags or paper towels
Pastry Brush
Cheesecloth
Sieve or fine wire mesh strainer
Electric Mixer, stand or hand, optional, as mixing the filling with a spoon is fine.Food Processor or Stand Mixer – also optional, since you can make the dough by hand, although it takes more time.
Rolling pin and/or Pasta roller/machinePastry or cutting board
Round cutters - The dough can also be cut into squares and rolled around the cannoli tube prior to frying. If making a stacked cannoli, any shaped cutter is fine, as well as a sharp knife.
Mixing bowl and wooden spoon if mixing filling by hand
Plastic Wrap/Clingfilm
Tea towels or just cloth towels
Required: Must make cannoli dough and shells. If you don’t have or do not want to purchase cannoli forms, which I would never ask of any of you, you could simply cut out circles, squares, or any shapes you want and stack them with the filling of your choice to make stacked cannoli's aka Cannolipoleons (directions below). If desired, you can channel MacGuyver and fashion something heat proof to get traditional shaped cannoli (6-8 inch sawed off lengths of a wooden broom stick or cane, sanded down and oiled, is THE authentic cannoli form!), or non-traditional shapes such as creating a form to make bowls, or even using cream horns if you happen to have them. Mini cannoli would be great too, and I've provided links to retailers of cannoli forms of all sizes.
Also, for those who don't like to cook or bake with alcohol - grape juice, cranberry juice, pomegranate juice, apple juice..any sweet juice of a fruit, especially ones used in or to make wine, can be substituted. Just add a little more vinegar to insure you get enough acid to relax the
dough
Variations: The filling is YOUR choice! Anything you want to fill them with is perfectly fine, sweet or savory, or you can use the filling recipe provided – making whatever changes you want to it. Cannoli would make a great addition to a Thanksgiving dessert table/spread. In many Italian households, during the holidays, cannoli is always part of the dessert offerings. You could also make a Thanksgiving themed cannoli, like pumpkin cannoli (I came up with a great pumpkin filling recipe below) or apples, pecans, walnuts, any dried fruits etc. An idea to gussy up your cannoli is; dipping the rims of the shell in melted chocolate and rolling in chopped nuts or sprinkles, then letting them set prior to filling. Dipping or pressing mini chocolate chips into the filled ends OR just stirring mini chocolate chips into the filling prior to stacking or filling whatever shaped shells you come up with, is another great idea and makes a nice presentation The sky is the limit here, be creative! Naturally, if you have any dietary restrictions, by all means, go with it. I’ve provided a link to a gluten-free cannoli recipe and a slightly savory vegan cannoli recipe to help get you started.
Bonus option: Make your own ricotta and/or mascarpone cheese! http://lisamichele.wordpress.com/2009/05/04/eating-my-curds-and-ditching-the-whey/http://www.bakingobsession.com/2009/05/02/homemade-mascarpone-cheese/
Technically, I know, this is not baking, and if you prefer to steer clear of the deep fry, you can bake the shell. You won’t get the snappy, blistery texture and appearance that make cannoli so special, but I’m sure it’ll taste good nonetheless. Here’s a link where the cook bakes some of his cannoli shells: http://www.ifood.tv/network/cannoli/recipes
Lidisano’s CannoliMakes 22-24 4-inch cannoliPrep time:Dough – 2 hours and 10-20 minutes, including resting time, and depending on whether you do it by hand or machine.Filling – 5-10 minutes plus chilling time (about 2 hours or more)Frying – 1-2 minutes per cannoliAssemble – 20–30 minutes
RECIPE NOTE: THE EQUIVALENTS FROM THIS RECIPE WERE PREPARED USING THIS CONVERSION SITE: http://www.gourmetsleuth.com/index.asp.
CANNOLI SHELLS

2 cups (250 grams/8.82 ounces) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons(28 grams/1 ounce) sugar
1 teaspoon (5 grams/0.06 ounces) unsweetened baking powder
1/2 teaspoon (1.15 grams/0.04 ounces) ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon (approx. 3 grams/0.11 ounces) salt
3 tablespoons (42 grams/1.5 ounces) vegetable or olive oil
1 teaspoon (5 grams/0.18 ounces) white wine vinegar
Approximately 1/2 cup (approx. 59 grams/approx. 4 fluid ounces/approx. 125 ml) sweet Marsala or any white or red wine you have on hand
1 large egg, separated (you will need the egg white but not the yolk)
Vegetable or any neutral oil for frying – about 2 quarts (8 cups/approx. 2 litres)
1/2 cup (approx. 62 grams/2 ounces) toasted, chopped pistachio nuts, mini chocolate chips/grated chocolate and/or candied or plain zests, fruits etc.. for garnish
Confectioners' sugar
Note - If you want a chocolate cannoli dough, substitute a few tablespoons of the flour (about 25%) with a few tablespoons of dark, unsweetened cocoa powder (Dutch process) and a little more wine until you have a workable dough (Thanks to Audax).

DIRECTIONS FOR SHELLS:

1. In the bowl of an electric stand mixer or food processor, combine the flour, sugar, cocoa, cinnamon, and salt. Stir in the oil, vinegar, and enough of the wine to make a soft dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and well blended, about 2 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest in the fridge from 2 hours to overnight.

2 Cut the dough into two pieces. Keep the remaining dough covered while you work. Lightly flour a large cutting or pastry board and roll the dough until super thin, about 1/16 to 1/8” thick (An area of about 13 inches by 18 inches should give you that). Cut out 3 to 5-inch circles (3-inch – small/medium; 4-inch – medium/large; 5-inch;- large. Your choice). Roll the cut out circle into an oval, rolling it larger and thinner if it’s shrunk a little.

3 Oil the outside of the cannoli tubes (You only have to do this once, as the oil from the deep fry will keep them well, uhh, oiled..lol). Roll a dough oval from the long side (If square, position like a diamond, and place tube/form on the corner closest to you, then roll) around each tube/form and dab a little egg white on the dough where the edges overlap. (Avoid getting egg white on the tube, or the pastry will stick to it.) Press well to seal. Set aside to let the egg white seal dry a little.

4. In a deep heavy saucepan, pour enough oil to reach a depth of 3 inches, or if using an electric deep-fryer, follow the manufacturer's directions. Heat the oil to 375°F (190 °C) on a deep fry thermometer, or until a small piece of the dough or bread cube placed in the oil sizzles and browns in 1 minute. Have ready a tray or sheet pan lined with paper towels or paper bags.

5. Carefully lower a few of the cannoli tubes into the hot oil. Do not crowd the pan. Fry the shells until golden, about 2 minutes, turning them so that they brown evenly.

8. Lift a cannoli tube with a wire skimmer or large slotted spoon, out of the oil. Using tongs, grasp the cannoli tube at one end. Very carefully remove the cannoli tube with the open sides straight up and down so that the oil flows back into the pan. Place the tube on paper towels or bags to drain. Repeat with the remaining tubes. While they are still hot, grasp the tubes with a potholder and pull the cannoli shells off the tubes with a pair of tongs, or with your hand protected by an oven mitt or towel. Let the shells cool completely on the paper towels. Place shells on cooling rack until ready to fill.

9. Repeat making and frying the shells with the remaining dough. If you are reusing the cannoli tubes, let them cool before wrapping them in the dough.

Stacked cannoli:

1. Heat 2-inches of oil in a saucepan or deep sauté pan, to 350-375°F (176 - 190 °C).

2. Cut out desired shapes with cutters or a sharp knife. Deep fry until golden brown and blistered on each side, about 1 – 2 minutes. Remove from oil with wire skimmer or large slotted spoon, then place on paper towels or bags until dry and grease free. If they balloon up in the hot oil, dock them lightly prior to frying. Place on cooling rack until ready to stack with filling.
ASSEMBLE THE CANNOLI:

1. When ready to serve..fill a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain or star tip, or a ziplock bag, with the ricotta cream. If using a ziplock bag, cut about 1/2 inch off one corner. Insert the tip in the cannoli shell and squeeze gently until the shell is half filled. Turn the shell and fill the other side. You can also use a teaspoon to do this, although it’s messier and will take longer.

2. Press or dip cannoli in chopped pistachios, grated chocolate/mini chocolate chips, candied fruit or zest into the cream at each end. Dust with confectioner’s sugar and/or drizzles of melted chocolate if desired.

TIPS AND NOTES:

- Dough must be stiff and well kneaded

- Rolling the dough to paper thinness, using either a rolling pin or pasta machine, is very important. If the dough is not rolled thin enough, it will not blister, and good cannoli should have a blistered surface.

- Initially, this dough is VERY stubborn, but keep rolling, it eventually gives in. Before cutting the shapes, let the dough rest a bit, covered, as it tends to spring back into a smaller shapes once cut. Then again, you can also roll circles larger after they’re cut, and/or into ovals, which gives you more space for filling.

- Your basic set of round cutters usually doesn’t contain a 5-inch cutter. Try a plastic container top, bowl etc, or just roll each circle to 5 inches. There will always be something in your kitchen that’s round and 5-inches if you want large cannoli.

- Oil should be at least 3 inches deep and hot – 360°F-375°F, or you’ll end up with greasy shells. I prefer 350°F - 360°F because I felt the shells darkened too quickly at 375°F.

- If using the cannoli forms, when you drop the dough on the form into the oil, they tend to sink to the bottom, resulting in one side darkening more. Use a slotted spoon or skimmer to gently lift and roll them while frying.

- DO NOT crowd the pan. Cannoli should be fried 2-4 at a time, depending on the width of your saucepan or deep fryer. Turn them once, and lift them out gently with a slotted spoon/wire skimmer and tongs. Just use a wire strainer or slotted spoon for flat cannoli shapes.

- When the cannoli turns light brown - uniform in color, watch it closely or remove it. If it’s already a deep brown when you remove it, you might end up with a really dark or slightly burnt shell.

- Depending on how much scrap you have left after cutting out all of your cannoli shapes, you can either fry them up and sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar for a crispy treat, or let the scraps rest under plastic wrap and a towel, then re-roll and cut more cannoli shapes.

- Push forms out of cannoli very gently, being careful not to break the shells as they are very delicate. DO NOT let the cannoli cool on the form, or you may never get it off without it breaking. Try to take it off while still hot. Hold it with a cloth in the center, and push the form out with a butter knife or the back of a spoon.

- Fill cannoli right before serving! If you fill them an hour or so prior, you’ll end up with soggy cannoli shells.

- If you want to prepare the shells ahead of time, store them in an airtight container, then re-crisp in a 350°F (176 °C) oven for a few minutes, before filling.

- Practice makes perfect. My first batch of shells came out less than spectacular, and that’s an understatement. As you go along, you’ll see what will make them more aesthetically pleasing, and adjust accordingly when rolling. My next several batches turned out great. Don’t give up!!


Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Sugar Free Banana and Mango Muffins


As the Monkey is just as fond of cakes as her mother, (I actually found her leafing though "How to be a Domestic Goddess" by Nigella Lawson today - pointing at the photos and saying "Yum Yum") I'm always looking for ways to make recipes healthier without sacrificing too much taste. I generally just cut the sugar amount in half and I never miss that extra sweetness. Today I found myself with a load of overripe bananas and an overripe mango so after the Monkey went to bed I set to some quick baking. I decided to turn them into muffins and try leaving out the sugar altogether in my usual recipe. The results were a huge success - you wouldn't satisfy a sweet tooth with them but they were sweet enough for my taste and the fruit kept them very moist which tends to bode well for freezing - their final destination. My concern was that they might not rise very well with all the fruit but it didn't seem to be a problem.
Just so you know these are what I call "proper" muffins less sweet and cake like than the so-called muffins they sell in the supermarket.
This recipe started out life as the Banana and Butterscotch Muffins in Nigella Express http://www.nigella.com/recipe/recipe_detail.aspx?rid=155 - the most fabulously easy muffin recipe although I've never found the butterscotch morsels so substitute with chocolate chips or raisins.
Ingredients
Very Ripe Bananas (3 large, 4 medium or 5 small - I used 5 little organic ones)
1 Very Ripe Medium Sized Mango - finely chopped but leaving a few larger chunks - I scrape off the skin so you end up with a bit of puree in there too.
2 Eggs
125ml vegetable or other light oil - I used rice bran oil
1 tsp vanilla extract
280g Plain Flour
1 tsp Baking Powder
1/2 tsp Bicarbonate of Soda
1: Preheat oven to 200 degrees and line a 12 bun muffin tin with muffin cases (I used my little silicon cases as I find better to freeze cakes without paper cases as they go soggy in the defrosting process)
2: Mix the eggs, oil and vanilla in a bowl
3: Mix the flour, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda in another bowl
4: Tip the egg mix into the dry ingredients and mix through
5: I then re-use the egg bowl to mash up the bananas (to save on washing up!) and add to the muffin mixture and mix through
6: Lastly mix in the mango
7: Spoon into your muffin cases and bake for about 20 mins

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Cooking Club - The Inaugural Meeting

My friend Emma had the great idea to start a cooking club for all her foodie friends. She was inspired by her parents who live somewhere that where there are no decent restaurants so they and their friends started a dinner club where they take turns in cooking a fancy three course meal for the others. Emma did some research and pared down some other ideas for cooking clubs and went for the following format; We take turns hosting the club with a few wildcard restaurant dinners in between. The host picks the theme which could be anything from an ingredient to a national cuisine. The host cooks a dinner on that theme and everyone else brings a recipe on the same theme.

The theme of the first one was “Curries”. I contributed my Pakistani Haleem King of Curries recipe. (ADD LINK) Emma went down the South East Asian route and served beef satay skewers for entree followed by Indonesian Grilled Chicken for mains. For dessert lime and white chocolate cheesecake which was fabulous. The big hit for me was the chicken - the delicious taste combined with the quick and easy recipe had me already cooking it for Mr Jen and the Monkey three days later.

I came away from a lovely evening with a folder full of nice new recipes – perfect – bring on the next one!

Emma's Indonesian Chicken

8 chicken thighs (on the bone)

8 drumsticks (on the bone)

Marinade:

4 lemongrass stalks, outer leaves discarded and roots trimmed

a large handful of fresh coriander leaves

6 French shallots peeled and cut in half

8 large garlic cloves, peeled

2 thumb size pieces of fresh root ginger, shopped

4 tbsp brown sugar

2 tbsp curry powder

2 tsp pepper

½ tsp salt

4 tbsp Thai fish sauce

400ml coconut milk

Place all the marinade ingredients in a food processor and pulse until it becomes a rough puree.

Place the chicken in a suitable container and pour the marinade over the chicken covering well. Chill overnight or for at least 4 hours. Remember to turn once or twice.

Preheat oven to 180 degrees. Cook chicken (covered) in oven for 40 minutes and then remove foil. Cook for 30 – 45 minutes until tender and golden.

Serves 8